It is no longer unusual to run into ramen with brown-fried scallion floating on the soup of it nowadays. But several decades ago, this unfamiliar stuff must have surprised those who faced this condiment for the first time with its odd looking and captured their heart with its individual aroma.
It is unclear which ramen shop firstly introduced this condiment for ramen in Tokyo, but it is obvious Kiraku in Shibuya is the first one which became well-known not only among ramen fanatics but also among general ramen eaters with its brown-fried scallion
Except the brown-fried scallion, the ramen of Kiraku is quite different in style from so-called traditional Tokyo ramen, in that its noodles are thick and flat and toppings consist of seasoned boiled egg along with a slice of chashu and boiled bean sprouts.No menma or no nori that are often found in a bowl in Tokyo.Since the founder of Kiraku is said to have come from Taiwan, ramen at Kiraku has been long believed to resemble with noodle dish there. But it is now clear that there is no noodle dish which is similar to ramen at Kiraku in Taiwan, and the style of ramen at Kiraku is nothing but original.
As explained above, noodles at Kiraku are flat and thick, which go well with flavorful say sauce taste soup. Although they seem not to use any seafood materials for the stock, its soup tastes so complicated that experienced ramen manias cannot tell what they are. In addition, the aroma of brown-fried scallion gives another layer to the flavor, which differentiate itself from other thousand of ramen shops.
Kiraku is a ramen shop but not specialized in ramen, and carries a lot of items in its menu equivalent to one of Chinese restaurants. You might get at lost what to order, but our recommendation is that you start with ramen or chashumen with which you can enjoy Kiraku's sticking-out characteristics most purely.
The ordering system is quite orthodox, like when a waitress come to you, just order yours. After finishing the bowl, you should go down to the cashier located at the exit on the first floor with a bill.
You'd better be informed of one thing in advance of your first visit to Kiraku, since we do not want you to get disappointed with other factors than bowl of ramen. You should not expect any friendly treatment from the shop clerks of Kiraku. They are extremely business-like and sometimes rude. But Ramen there still remains worth of trying, since there is no equivalent bowl in Tokyo. (BON 2000.6.11)
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